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Table of Contents:

Introduction

Chapter 1 - 
Race Driving Fundamentals

Chapter 2-
Mental Attitude

Chapter 3 -
Physical Conditioning

Chapter 4 -
Practice Car and Equipment

Chapter 5 -
Starts

Chapter 6  -
Traffic 

Chapter 7 -
Braking

Chapter 8 -
Late Apex

Chapter 9 - Straights

Chapter 10 -
Early Apex

Chapter 11 -
High Speed Sweeper

Chapter 12 - Passing and Being Passed

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Race Driving Fundamentals
by Lee Marks

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Practice Car and Equipment              

Your practice can be any car or light track but must have the following equipment: manual transmission, tachometer, H or R or higher rated tires less than one year old ( old rubber becomes hard and does not grip well or respond to pressure changes correctly ). Also the brakes, suspension bushing, steering box and shocks, not overload types or air shocks, should be in excellent condition. They do not have to be the high performance type.

New cars are so quiet that it would be an advantage to put on a louder muffler and either completely remove the air column element or install a very low restriction one. This will give you intake and exhaust noise to train your hearing. Plus you can practice knowing the RPM without looking at the tachometer.

One note, if you use a pickup truck, secure at least 200 lbs. of sand at the tail end of the bed. You do not want the back to get light and skip around. As far as horsepower is concerned, if you are not very experiences in high HP cars and are not planning on racing one in the near future then you should stay away from them.

You will benefit from an under powered car that will require more finesse to get around a racecourse quickly. The overabundance of power will merely spoil you and undermine your progress in your racecar. On the other hand if you are experienced in some type of racing or are planning to race circle track or big engine cars, your best bet is to use a muscle car. Also, unless you plan to race one I would avoid rear engine cars.

I remember back in the late sixties that many professional race drivers would use rental cars as practice cars for road racecourses that they were unfamiliar with. This way they could get their racing lines and apexes “down a pat”. Also they could go out on the track during the times that their mechanics were working on the racecar. Yes, street car practice is applicable to racecar performance.

You will need to do the following prepping to your practice car: Install a second return spring on the accelerator linkage. Secure anything loose in the trunk, etc. Install a footrest for your left foot, this will help you to brace yourself in turns and help your “heel and toe”. Just a simple block of wood or aluminum with two screws or bolts holding it will do the trick. Next you will want to adjust or block up either the brake or gas pedal to make “hell and toeing” easier. Your goal is for when you apply your brakes and are downshifting the brake pedal is higher than the gas pedal.

Plus, the pedal must be close enough together for you can have your foot on the brake and gas at the same time. My personal practice car is a bone-stock 5.0 Mustang; its pedal layout is excellent. I wish my sports 2000 racecar were as good. The equipment you will need are: a quality air gauge with an air bleed button, a stop watch, a log book, measuring tape, three to five traffic cones or even plastic milk bottles, a steel or wood plate about the size of a road mark bump. Plus you should have some earplugs; these will simulate all your racing gear muffling your hearing.

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